If you are new to the vise, tying a hare s ear nymph is probably the best way to build your confidence without losing your mind. It's one of those classic patterns that has survived decades of gear shifts and "miracle" synthetic materials for one simple reason: it just works. Whether you're fishing a tiny creek in the mountains or a big tailwater, this fly mimics so many different types of underwater life that fish almost can't help themselves.
The beauty of this fly is that it doesn't have to be perfect. In fact, if it looks a bit "messy," you're probably doing it right. Let's break down how to get this thing on a hook and why you should probably have about twenty of them in your fly box at all times.
Why This Fly Is a Must-Have
Before we get into the actual steps, it's worth thinking about why we're even doing this. Most nymphs you see in the water are kind of drab, brownish-grey, and a little bit fuzzy. The hare's ear captures that "buggy" essence perfectly. Because the fur comes from a rabbit's mask, it has a mix of soft under-fur and stiff guard hairs. When those guard hairs poke out, they look like legs or gills moving in the current.
You'll hear people call it the "Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear" or GRHE. The gold wire doesn't just add a bit of flash; it helps protect the delicate fur from the teeth of a hungry trout. It's a durable, heavy-hitting fly that works as a general searching pattern when you have no idea what's actually hatching.
Gathering Your Materials
You don't need a massive budget to start tying a hare s ear nymph. Most of this stuff is basic.
- Hook: A standard 2x long nymph hook, usually in sizes 10 through 16.
- Bead (Optional): Brass or tungsten if you want it to sink fast. Gold is the classic choice.
- Thread: 6/0 or 8/0 in black, brown, or tan.
- Tail: You can use guard hairs from the hare's mask or even some pheasant tail fibers.
- Ribbing: Fine or medium gold wire.
- Body & Thorax: Hare's ear dubbing. Buy a pre-mixed bag or, if you're feeling adventurous, scrape it off a real rabbit mask yourself.
- Wing Case: A small strip of pheasant tail or a piece of dark turkey tail feather.
The Magic of the Hare's Mask
If you can, try to get a full rabbit mask instead of just a bag of pre-cut dubbing. Why? Because different parts of the face give you different textures. The fur between the ears is usually longer and stiffer—perfect for the thorax. The fur on the cheeks is softer, which makes for a sleeker body. Having that variety allows you to customize the fly to look exactly how you want it.
The Step-by-Step Process
Let's get into the actual tying. If this is your first time, don't worry about the fly looking like a masterpiece. The fish aren't art critics.
1. Setting the Foundation
If you're using a bead, slide it on before you put the hook in the vise. Start your thread right behind the bead and wrap it back toward the bend of the hook. Keep your wraps neat but don't obsess over it. You want a solid base so your materials don't spin around the hook shank later.
2. Adding the Tail
For the tail, I like to use a small pinch of the stiff guard hairs from the mask. You want the tail to be about half the length of the hook shank. Tie it in right at the bend. Pro tip: If the tail keeps spinning to the side, take one wrap of thread underneath the base of the tail to prop it up. It makes a huge difference in how the fly sits in the water.
3. Attaching the Ribbing
Take a piece of gold wire—maybe four or five inches—and tie it in at the same spot as the tail. Let it hang off the back of the hook for now. We'll use it later to create those nice segments on the body.
4. Dubbing the Body
This is where most people trip up when tying a hare s ear nymph. They use way too much dubbing. You want to take a tiny pinch of fur and "noodle" it onto your thread. It should look like a thin, fuzzy piece of yarn.
Wrap the dubbing forward, stopping about two-thirds of the way up the hook. You want a slight taper—thinner at the back, slightly thicker as you move toward the front. If it looks a little "spiky," leave it! Those spikes are what make the fly look alive.
5. Ribbing and Segmenting
Now, grab that gold wire. Wrap it forward over the dubbing in even spirals. Usually, five or six turns are plenty. This traps the fur and gives the fly that iconic look. Tie the wire down firmly once you reach the end of the body and helicopter the excess off (just twist it until it breaks rather than dulling your good scissors).
6. The Wing Case
This is the part that makes it look like a developing insect. Take about 6 to 10 fibers from a pheasant tail feather. Tie them in by the tips right where your body ended. The long ends should be pointing back toward the tail. Don't worry, we'll fold them over in a minute.
7. The Thorax
The thorax should be a bit chunkier than the body. Use a "messier" mix of dubbing here—something with more of those stiff guard hairs. Wrap it forward, leaving just enough room behind the bead (or hook eye) to finish the fly.
8. Finishing the Wing Case
Pull the pheasant tail fibers forward over the top of the thorax. This creates a flat "shell" on the back of the fly. Tie it down right behind the bead, clip the excess, and then do a couple of half-hitches or a whip finish.
Making It Look "Buggy"
Once the fly is out of the vise, it might look a bit too neat. I usually take an old toothbrush or a piece of Velcro and lightly brush out the sides of the thorax. This pulls out some of those internal fibers to look like legs. It makes a world of difference. When the water hits those fibers, they move and vibrate, which is often the trigger that gets a trout to strike.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even though this is a "simple" fly, there are a few traps you can fall into.
- Crowding the eye: If you don't leave enough room at the front, you'll struggle to tie your tippet on at the river. Always leave a tiny bit of space behind the bead.
- Too much dubbing: I can't stress this enough. If your fly looks like a fat caterpillar, you used too much. Think "slim and trim."
- Loose wire: If your ribbing isn't tight, the first fish that bites it will pull the wire loose, and the fly will unravel. Give it a good tug when you're wrapping.
Variations to Try
Once you've mastered the basic version, you can start playing around with different styles.
- The Flashback: Instead of pheasant tail for the wing case, use a piece of Mylar tinsel. It adds a bit of glint that works wonders in murky water.
- The Tactical Version: Use a heavy tungsten bead and no tail. This is great for "Euro-nymphing" where you want the fly to bounce along the bottom as fast as possible.
- Colors: While natural hare is king, don't be afraid to try olive or black dubbing. Sometimes the fish just want a slightly different shade.
How to Fish It
Tying a hare s ear nymph is only half the fun; the real reward is seeing it disappear into a fish's mouth. I usually fish this under a strike indicator. Cast it upstream, let it sink, and try to get a "dead drift" where it moves at the same speed as the current.
If that's not working, try the "Leisenring Lift." Let the fly swing at the end of the drift so it rises toward the surface. This mimics an insect swimming up to hatch, and it often triggers an aggressive reaction strike.
At the end of the day, the hare's ear is a confidence fly. When you're standing in the middle of a river wondering what to tie on, this is the one you can always rely on. It's simple, it's ugly, and it's arguably the most effective nymph ever created. So, grab your vise, find some rabbit fur, and get to work!